Forced Bulbs
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| Forcing bulbs is a process by which you trick spring flowering bulbs into blooming in the middle of winter. Forcing bulbs is an ancient tradition practiced by Europeans since the late 17th century. Anna Pavord, in her landmark book, Bulb, wrote, “Keen plantsmen soon discovered that it was possible to force hyacinths into bloom earlier than Nature intended. Nehemiah Grew, secretary of the Royal Society (Britain) and a pioneer in the painstaking business of finding out how plants are made, had already in 1682 observed that the hyacinth’s flower buds were formed in the bulb the previous season and that it might be possible to tickle them into bloom ‘by keeping the Plants warm, and thereby enticing the young lurking Flowers to come abroad.’ We need to trick them into thinking they have had their winter before before we force them to have their spring.” Many bulbs can be forced – many cannot be forced. Bulbs can be forced in water and/or soil. All bulbs, except Paperwhites, must be exposed to a 10-13 week period of chilling where the bulbs are kept at temperatures in the forties. For maximum effect, bulbs should be grouped in groups of no less than 3-5 bulbs. |
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| There are only a few bulbs that can be forced in water. Tazetta Narcissus, Large Cup Narcissus, Crocus and Hyacinths can all be forced in water. To force a bulb in water, you must first place the bulb/bulbs in a paper or mesh bag in the refrigerator for 10-13 weeks. This chilling period encourages the bulb to produce strong, healthy roots. Without these roots, bulbs will abort their growth. Once chilled, the bulbs can be removed from the refrigerator and placed on a bed of stones or glass beads in a bowl. The bowl should then be filled with water to the base of the bulbs. If bulbs are placed deeper in the water, they are likely to rot. Place the bowl in a cool area out of direct sunlight. When the bulbs have begun to produce 1 inch shoots that have turned a deep green in color, move the bowl to a warm, bright area, but not an area that receives direct sunlight. In 3-6 weeks the bowl will be filled with blossoms and your home filled with the fragrance of spring. The warmth of a home in winter will often shorten the life of the blossom. Try to keep the blooming plants in as cool an area as possible. Narcissus, especially, can become leggy and fall over before they bloom. To prevent this, when the bulbs have begun to produce green shoots, replace their water with a mixture of 3 parts water to 1 part hard liquor. Rum, tequila, gin or vodka are preferred. Beer and wine will injure the bulbs so do not use these. The resulting plants will be 40%-60% shorter. |
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| Many different types of bulbs can be forced in soil. Muscari (Grape Hyacinths), rock garden iris, scillas, chionodoxa, tulips, crocus, hyacinths and narcissus can all be forced in soil. Unlike bulbs forced in water, bulbs forced in soil need to be planted before chilling. 6-inch diameter pots are the easiest to work with. A 6-inch diameter pot can accommodate 6 tulips, 3 hyacinths, 6 daffodils, 8 crocus, 8 muscari, 6 rock garden iris or 8 scillas. A heavy potting soil amended with ¼ cup bone meal works well for these bulbs. |
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Tulips |
| For tulips and daffodils, place 1-inch of soil in the bottom of the pot. Arrange 3 bulbs in the pot and cover with soil. Place 3 more bulbs on top of the soil, but not directly on top of the buried bulbs and cover these bulbs with soil leaving only the tips exposed. Water thoroughly, and when the pots are completely drained, place them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator for 10-13 weeks. When the chilling period is finished, place the pots in a cool bright area, but not in direct sunlight. In 3-6 weeks, the bulbs will be blooming. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged and never let the pot remain in standing water. If the pots are kept in a cool area of the home, the blossoms will last longer. |
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Hyacinths |
| Potted hyacinths are some of the most beautiful and most fragrant and easiest of bulbs to force. In a 6-inch pot, which has been lined with a soil and bone meal mixture, arrange 3 bulbs close together but not touching. Cover the bulbs with soil leaving only the very tops exposed. Water the pots and allow to drain thoroughly. Wrap in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 10-13 weeks. When the chilling period is finished, place the pots in a cool bright area, but not in direct sunlight. In 6 weeks, the bulbs will be blooming. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged and never let the pot remain in standing water. If the pots are kept in a cool area of the home, the blossoms will last longer. |
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Muscari |
| Muscari, rock garden irises, scillas, chionodoxa and crocus can also be forced, but are rarely seen. In a 6-inch pot, which has been lined with a soil and bone meal mixture, arrange the bulbs close together but not touching. Cover the bulbs with soil leaving only the very tops exposed. Water the pots and allow to drain thoroughly. Wrap in a plastic bag with breathing holes and refrigerate for 10-13 weeks. When the chilling period is finished, place the pots in a cool bright area, but not in direct sunlight. In 6 weeks, the bulbs will be blooming. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged and never let the pot remain in standing water. If the pots are kept in a cool area of the home, the blossoms will last longer. Six bulbs to consider forcing: |
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Scilla Siberica Spring Beauty |
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| Scilla, AKA Squill or Wild Hyacinths, are probably native to Turkey, Syria and Lebanon, but found their way to Europe centuries ago. Spring Beauty, known as the “Siberian Squill”, was introduced in 1880. If you are a lover of the color blue, this is the flower for you. The plant bears up to 6 sky blue flowers from each bulb. |
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Chionodoxa Forbesii |
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| Chionodoxa are native to the Mediterranean region and are often called the Glory-of-the-Snow. They became an essential part of the Cottage Garden during the Victorian Era. Chionodoxa Forbesii was introduced in 1880. Each bulb produces 4-12 flowers with deep blue petals and white centers. |
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Rock Garden Iris Danfordiae |
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| The first Rock Garden Iris was introduced into Europe in 1596. Iris Danfordiae is a sunshine yellow, 5 inch plant introduced in 1847. One of the most enchanting of the rock garden irises, this plant when mixed with muscari will brighten any home. |
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Muscari Valerie Finnes |
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| Muscari, more commonly known as Grape Hyacinths, have been part of European gardens for centuries. Named to honor the legendary British photographer and gardener, Valerie Finnes, this muscari’s legendary color does her honor. The light blue color is rarely seen in nature. |
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Narcissus Albus Plenus Odoratus |
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| One of the most unique narcissus, this daffodil is often known as “The Double Pheasant’s Eye”. Introduced in 1861, the blossom has a double snow white perianth with a frilled yellow center with red rim. |
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Crocus Tommasinianus Roseus |
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| Introduced in 1925, the rosie purple of its blossoms, makes this crocus a perpetual favorite. Paired with a tulip like Orange Princess, the effect is stunning. One of the most frequently asked questions that I receive from guests at the many flower shows we attend is, “What can I grow if I live in an apartment?” There are not many things that can be grown in an apartment, but forced bulbs can be easily grown. Also, a pot of forced bulbs presented to a loved one in assisted living is the very best of gifts. Since the 1600s, we have been forcing bulbs so that we could “entice” the beauty of spring to grace our homes in the midst of winter. I suspect that this is one horticultural practice that will continue for many centuries to come. |
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